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皇朝巴生古迹漫步游
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Post by How BL 侯墨龍   #111503    |    Nov 20, 2013, 10:19am   |    Attractions
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巴生,首先联想到让人食指大动的肉骨茶。这个周末,我们出发到巴生一日游,不过,肉骨茶只是前菜,真正目的是冲着皇朝古迹而来!漫步古迹新景点,细味巴生肉骨茶以外的好味道。

撰文/摄影:农晓诚

古迹是旧的,但景点是新的,皇朝巴生古迹漫步游是推介了大概半年的巴生旅游路线。这个新的旅游景点是由巴生市政府和雪州旅游局所合作促成,主要目的 是要带领游客们沿着具有历史性的道路参观巴生古城所遗留下来的许多历史性建筑物。这些刻画着巴生市镇整个轮廓的建筑是否依然绽放光芒?选个空闲的周末沿着 古迹路线,把即熟悉又新鲜的巴生游一遍吧!

【第1站】巴生火车站(Klang Railway Station)

火车站路是巴生最古老的街道,拥有许多家银行、商店和巴生邮政局总部。

在雪兰莪铁路兴建之初,碍于有限的财政预算,政府未能把铁路延伸到巴生市镇南区。巴生火车站建立于1890年,以取代距离巴生市中心3英里外自 1875年使用的第一座火车站武吉古打(Bukit Kuda)站。火车站路是巴生最古老的街道,拥有许多家银行、商店和巴生邮政局总部,是巴生繁忙的商业中心之一。

【第2站】拉惹阿都拉仓库(Gedung Raja Abdullah)

建于1857年的巴生拉惹阿都拉仓库坐落在巴生河畔。

建于1857年的巴生拉惹阿都拉仓库坐落在巴生河畔,在锡米开采的高峰期是用来库存武器,锡米和粮食的角色。在1874年,英国人将它转为政府办事 处,雪兰莪首次的议会也在这里举行。1880年,拉惹阿都拉仓库被征用为警察局,一直到1974年。该建筑物于1985年成为一座锡米博物馆,展示雪兰莪 的锡矿业开采史。目前仿佛被遗弃,大门深锁,据说里面已经空无一物。

【第3站】巴生消防局(Klang Fire Station)

这座美丽的维多利亚式建筑物建于1890年代,保护这个城镇免于火警的威胁。

座落在东姑古汀路(Jalan Tengku Diaudin)及东姑柯拉娜路(小印度Jalan Tengku Kelana,前称林茂街 )的交界处。这座美丽的维多利亚式建筑物建于1890年代,保护这个城镇免于火警的威胁。时至今日,这座建筑物仍然是消防局,虽然多年前曾经装修,但它的 主要结构和一些建筑设计,仍然很好地保持着百年前的原貌。

【第4站】斯里旦达尤哈巴尼印度庙(Kuil Sri Nagara Thendayuthapani)

从印度庙开始了解兴都文化,以及巴生印度移民的历史足迹。

斯里旦达尤哈巴尼印度庙是巴生市区内主要的印度庙之一,无论是早期或现在都为巴生市兴都教徒的主要聚集地。从印度庙开始了解兴都文化,以及巴生印度移民的历史足迹。

【第5站】拉惹玛哈迪城堡(Raja Mahadi Fort)

拉惹玛哈迪于哥打山上的有利位置建立城堡,以监视从巴生河驶入拉惹阿都拉仓库的船只。

拉惹玛哈迪城堡建于1866年,当时雪兰莪发生一场内战,拉惹玛哈迪与拉惹阿都拉互相争夺巴生河流域地区的控制权。拉惹玛哈迪于哥打山上的有利位置 建立城堡,以监视从巴生河驶入拉惹阿都拉仓库的船只。现今巴生市议会旁的城堡,成为充满历史味道的地标,伫立在城堡处依然能够饱览巴生河及巴生市北区。

【第6站】哥打桥(Kota Bridge)

桥的上层给车辆使用,下层则是供脚车和路人使用。

哥打桥坐落于跨越巴生河的新桥旁,建于1957年,为马来西亚第一座双层钢铁结构桥。桥的上层给车辆使用,下层则是供脚车和路人使用。由于难以负荷日渐繁重的交通流量,于1992年新桥建竣后宣告退休。目前,哥打桥的下层依旧开放让摩托,脚车及路人使用。

【第7站】巴生北区回教堂(Klang Utara Mosque)

金色的圆顶及宣礼塔在远处显得格外亮眼。

于2009年完成的巴生北区回教堂并不是古迹之一,但是坐落在富有历史的巴生河畔旁,让巴生的风景生色不少,金色的圆顶及宣礼塔在远处显得格外亮眼。

【第8站】印度回教堂(Indian-Muslim Mosque)

回教堂在近几年曾扩充重建,以容纳日益增加的信徒。

印度回教堂兴建于1910年,供当地的印裔回教徒作为祈祷及社交用途。回教堂在近几年曾扩充重建,以容纳日益增加的信徒。

【第9站】小印度(Little India)

Jalan Tengku Kelana前称为林茂街,是印裔的聚集地。

Jalan Tengku Kelana前称为林茂街,是印裔的聚集地,所以这里也被称为巴生小印度,这里是雪兰莪州最大的印度街之一,街上商店林立,沿路上充斥着印度音乐,让人仿 佛置身于印度。国内外游客都能在这里享受到价廉物美且充满印度特色的购物经验或一尝印度传统美食。但是偶尔也能看见一两间华人经营的老店铺。从纱丽、纺织 品、手镯、脚镯、项链、不绣钢容器、金饰到花饰,以及在路的左右两旁行人道上摆卖的印度食品,一应俱全。

【第10站】巴生修道学院(Klang Convent School)

走在林茂街, 很容易就可辨认到的学校主楼。

巴生修道学院建于1924年,当年的第一批学生只有19人。它坐落在林茂街,就在露德圣母天主教堂隔邻。 走在林茂街, 很容易就可辨认到的学校主楼,学校主楼在1926年至1928年之间建成,并于1928年1月18日由当时雪兰莪参政司威廉彼尔爵士主持开幕启用。

【第11站】露德圣母天主教堂(Church of Our Lady of Lourdes)

露德圣母天主教堂于1928年竣工,由索哈神父(Father Souhait)筹建。

露德圣母天主教堂于1928年竣工,由索哈神父(Father Souhait)筹建,是巴生其中一间最古老的建筑物。教堂主体是州内少见的砖石结构建筑物,并模仿法国天主教圣地路德(Lourdes)的天主教堂而 建。如今,这座教堂伫立在繁忙林茂街,默默散发出一种哥德式的美感。

【第12站】观音亭(Kuan Yin Temple)

巴生观音亭是雪兰莪最悠久的华人庙宇之一。

建于1892年,巴生观音亭是雪兰莪最悠久的华人庙宇之一。原本面临被拆卸的命运,幸好得到雪兰莪苏丹宣布把它列为州遗产建筑物,认可它在历史长河里的珍贵价值,才有幸被保存下来。目前,观音亭原庙已完成修复,与崭新的天王殿并列,吸引无数的信徒及游客到访。

【第13站】旧渣打银行(Old Charted Bank Building)

旧渣打银行建于1874年,它是巴生第一间金融机构。

坐落在皇宫路和拿督韩沙路交界处的旧渣打银行,建于1874年,它是巴生第一间金融机构。该座具有新古典主义风格的建筑物,深受殖民主义建筑风格影响,在楼上有两排延伸的阳台眺望路旁。目前该建筑物是一家印度时装精品店。

【第14站】苏丹阿都阿兹皇家展览馆(The Royal Gallery)

苏丹苏莱曼大楼(Bangunan Sultan Suleiman)内,建于1909年。

苏丹阿都阿兹皇家展览馆设立于有巴生白宫之称的苏丹苏莱曼大楼(Bangunan Sultan Suleiman)内,此殖民时代建筑物建于1909年,为英国人办事处,在较后的日据时代被日军转为作军事基地,后再辗转变成当地政府办事处,2005 年改为皇家展览馆,收藏苏丹的私人手工艺收藏品,纪念品和随身用品等。

古迹老味道

【第15站】德地肉骨茶店(Teck Teh)

随着时光变迁,以前苦力充饥补身的美食现已售卖至RM12一人份。

巴生肉骨茶闻名世界各地,在巴生市区本身就有好几百家肉骨茶档。于火车站路一(Jalan Stesen 1)战后店铺的德地肉骨茶外表看似平平无奇,却是由巴生肉骨茶发源人创立。目前,李氏肉骨茶已传到第4代,烹煮肉骨茶的秘方不外传。小小一碗肉骨茶,一人 一碗汤料浓烈,肉质松软,份量不多不少,配上一壶中国茶乃是最原始的吃法。随着时光变迁,以前苦力充饥补身的美食现已售卖至RM12一人份,其实还挺贵 吃。德地天天营业,可是吃肉骨茶就要趁早。

【第16站】中国酒店(Chong Kok Kopitiam)

除了传统的早餐糕点,也发现有提供全麦的炭烧圆面包。

中国酒店以前是卖酒的,现在则是巴生家喻户晓的传统咖啡店,拥有将近70年的历史。茶店早餐时段总是门庭若市,熟客游客一人一杯海南咖啡,炭烧面包 以及椰浆饭开始了忙碌的一天,各大民族乐融融的挤在老风情十足的店铺里谈话家常。除了传统的早餐糕点,也发现有提供全麦的炭烧圆面包,美味之余健康十足。

采访后记

实话实说,整个巴生古迹漫步游的路线其实并不亲游客(Tourist Friendly),撇开马来西亚闷热的天气不说,有些古迹地势偏高路远,一路上没景点和商店,会让游客省略掉。由于某些古迹属于私人地方,有些还是当地 居民的日常作息的场所,比如印度庙和天主教堂都会闭门上锁。学生在上课的学校等地方游客都只能仰望外观,互动较少感受不深。至于拉惹阿都拉仓库空置深锁实 属可惜,苏丹阿都阿兹皇家展览馆可说办得最好可是缺乏宣传,尤其是漫步古迹路线的手册,游客难以随处可得可见。

原载:皇朝巴生古迹漫步游

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